Troubleshooting

Check Echo is powered (status light lit) and within Bluetooth range, and that Bluetooth and location permissions are granted to the app. If you switched Echo into computer (USB) mode, it will not appear over Bluetooth, connect it to the desktop app by USB instead, or switch back to Bluetooth mode and restart it.

The signal may be a rolling-code remote (identified but not decoded), or an encoding Echo does not support. Check the frequency, most hobby remotes are 433.92 MHz, and press the remote several times so Echo can build confidence. Use the frequency hunter to confirm you are on the strongest channel.

Make sure the frequency is one Echo can receive; the radio is tuned for 410-450 MHz and flags signals outside that band as weak. Move closer to the transmitter. If you are hunting an unknown frequency, run the frequency hunter first.

Older fobs can drift off their original frequency, run autotune, which nudges the receiver to lock on. Cheap remotes also vary in timing; more repeated presses give a better result.

Replay and the button refuse rolling-code signals and will not send while the radio is busy, the status light turns red on failure. Make sure the armed signal is a fixed-code one, and that no capture, scan or link activity is using the radio.

Battery readings need a one-time calibration against a known battery level, which you can run from the app.

The Echo-to-Echo link is experimental and has never been tested between two real units, see Echo-to-Echo Link. Treat it as a preview.